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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: adding creative new sleeping space
Has anyone ever seen a bunk that folds down from the ceiling over the passenger and driver seats?
I have seen some that use the back of a sofa, hinged at the top, raised to become the top bunk. The seat of the sofa with the back raised would then be the bottom bunk.
The top bunk is supported by straps to the roof/ceiling or by removable braces to the floor.
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Rich D.
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10/10/08 08:00am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Handy gadget everyone needs
"Ladies and Gentlemen, welcome aboard the first fully automated motorhome trip. This vehicle has two types of radar, an infrared vehicle detection system, automatic programming GPS and since you have entered your destination campsite you will be taken directly there without further delay. You may sit back, relax and let the advanced electronics take you there. Here we go traveling at the maximum allowed speed. Don't worry, nothing could possibly go wrong...go wrong..........go wrong.......go wrong..............go wrong.........go wrong...................go wrong.................go wrong..........................................................................wrong............................wro..........................wr...................................................................................wrongggggggggggggg.................."
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Rich D.
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10/09/08 09:16am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Kick the heat
Sure, I have several that came built in to my coach. You will need to find a 120 volt model rather than the 240 volt units for homes. There are models made by Cadet that will suit your needs.
Link to Cadet
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Rich D.
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10/08/08 10:18am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What length is acceptable for motorhome and trailer?
I am considering a enclosed trailer to pull behind a 43' motorhome. Many states have a 65' total length limit that limits the trailer with tongue to 18 feet.
43 + 18 = 61
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Rich D.
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10/06/08 08:09pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Prevost A/C questions
Roof top AC units draw from 1600+ amps to run with 2500+ amps to start. There are devices that will cycle different high amperage devices to allow more of them to operate with a 30 amp supply.
I do not think that any RV will be able to operate more than two units with probably very few additional powered items.
Maybe the coach has a smart inverter-large battery bank system that will provide power for a short time. This would require many very large batteries (maybe multiple electric fork lift batteries).
Most entertainer coaches have multiple generators that are always operating providing power to keep the talent happy.
Of course, he meant watts not amps.
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Rich D.
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10/03/08 11:47am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Vu Qube portable satellite antenna
http://www.bbrv.dreamstation.com/sat.html
Instead of the Cube, check into this type mount, which is easy to set up once you do it a few times and a LOT cheaper than the Cube. Doug
This is a good alternative to any portable dish EXCEPT the Vu Cube which is an automatic signal seeking dish, NOT just a "dish in a box".
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Rich D.
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10/02/08 10:46am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Vu Qube portable satellite antenna
SoccerDad is right, the Vu Cube is a single satellite dish which means it will receive all of the "non-HD" programming from DirecTv now and after next February. As their advertisements state; you need to do nothing to your TV, satellite receiver or dish.
Now, that said, you must understand the limitations to a single satellite receiver: Most of the network (CBS,NBC,ABC,FOX,) are "spot beamed" to a particular area and come from a different satellite than the rest of the DirecTv lineup. HD channels are also NOT on this satellite. There are several ways to go. If you open (or change to) an RV account you will be able to pay for and receive both east coast and west coast feeds for the networks from NY and LA. If you get your locals via DirecTv now you may or may not be able to get them when you travel. Depends on how far from your home you travel and whether or not they are spot beamed.
In any event, the Vu Cube will not be any more outdated than any single satellite receiver. It is the same thing but with a built in aiming device.
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Rich D.
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10/02/08 09:24am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Pad Advice
Concrete or concrete pavers over the same base preparation as for the concrete. Pavers may move some but they will not crack like concrete and are easily repaired with 100% restoration of appearance.
IMO, asphalt will not support the static weight of a heavy vehicle parked for long periods of time. Sooner or later you will develop depressions that collect water and deteriorate the asphalt. Once cracks develop there is no easy fix.
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Rich D.
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10/01/08 07:44am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 240 volts to the RV?
tropical36,
Of course, you are correct about a 240 volt, two wire (plus ground) supply but maybe we should not talk about that here on an RV related forum. That will only tend to confuse people about what should be supplied to their RV which is, of course, a 50 amp 120/240 volt, 3 pole, 4 wire service. Also, excellent point about the difference in potential between ground and neutral in a sub-panel.
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Rich D.
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09/26/08 11:59am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 240 volts to the RV?
Bumpy said "OK, so both you and Rich D. are saying that wa8yxm was wrong? that you can pull 49 amps on each/both breakers.
that was what I thought.
bumpy"
Here is where it gets more confusing!! No, wa8yxm is NOT wrong. No more than 50 amps flows (in any one circuit). But, yes you can draw 49 amps on each 1/2 of the two pole breaker because it is protecting two circuits. A 240 volt, 50 amp circuit provides a maxium of 50 amps at 240 volts (50A X 240V = 12,000 watts). When divided into two 120 volt circuits you can draw 100 amps (100A X 120V = 12,000 watts) Same thing!!
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Rich D.
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09/26/08 10:43am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 240 volts to the RV?
In most jurisdictions, wiring a system like that would be a violation of the NEC. Multiwire branch circuits must have a common trip which share the neutral.
The single double throw breaker also keeps you from inadvertantly wiring both sides to the same phase since the buss bars are aranged so that side by side locations are from separate phases.
The two hot wires are not connected to different electrical phases, but to opposite poles of a single phase source. The neutral wire is connected to the center tap of that single phase source. With very few exceptions, electric utilities generate and distribute three-phase power. Only a one of these "phases" (single phase) is connected to the home or RV shore hookup. Because this single phase is center tapped, either "leg" of this single phase measures 120V to the center tapped neutral. The legs are 180 degrees out of phase which makes it a bit confusing!
Bumpy, since either side of the two legs to neutral can deliver up to 50 amps, you can get up to 100 amps as long as neither side draws more than 50 amps. The neutral is sized the same as either leg as the return voltages from the two legs are 180 degrees out of phase so actually only one leg is using the neutral at a time. This circuit is a normal 120/240V 3 pole, 4 wire circuit used for other such things as a household electric stove/oven. No different.
If someone were to supply two 120V hots from the same side of the transformer (not 180 degrees out of phase) the neutral would need to carry twice the current as the individual hot wires. Because we use a 60 cycle Alternating Current supply, we can take advantage of the phases and use smaller neutral wire sizes saving costs of distribution. Three phase supplies(each phase could supply 120/240V current 120 degrees apart) need only one neutral sized the same as a single hot wire.
This is a simplified explanation and not meant to be a through text on the subject.
Rich D.
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Rich D.
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09/26/08 08:09am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 240 volts to the RV?
Please post a page reference, other than NEC, to this statement. I have NEVER seen any warning on an RV pedestal or plug.
Why do you think the NEC requires warning labels on 50 Amp RV service plugs?
How about my owners manual, will that do?
http://i38.tinypic.com/2463rpj.jpg
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Rich D.
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09/25/08 11:39am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 240 volts to the RV?
Just one more little important point about 50A 120/240Volt RVs. It is important to turn OFF the service (on CG post) breaker before connecting the RV plug. If you don't and happen to get the two hots connected before the neutral and ground make contact, you will put 240VAC across anything that is ON in the motorhome. And if you do that, you will let the smoke out.Though it is a good idea to turn the breaker off before plugging in, you need to remember that in the rig, the two 120 volt circuits are separate, so if you energize the hot before the neutral, you simply have an open circuit until the neutral is made up.
Neutral and ground do not get disconnected by a breaker. They are hardwired and permanently connected.
He means disconnected by unplugging not that they get disconnected by the breaker. If you angle a 4 prong 50 amp RV type plug and plug in without shutting off the breaker it is possible to be connected to the two hot wires without connecting the neutral.
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Rich D.
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09/24/08 03:17pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Best route from Mystic, CT to Harrisburg, PA
I95 to I287 to I78.
I78 turns into I81 east of Harrisburg.
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Rich D.
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09/17/08 03:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Do you actually use the phone outlets in your coach?
The only thing I use mine for since cell phones and "cell phone high speed internet" is to keep the Directv box connected so it never gets shut off during storage. There are some cell phones that have the capability of connecting to the wired jacks so you can make calls when not connected to a wired connection. I never bothered with that as the cell phone is just too handy as is.
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Rich D.
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09/17/08 10:42am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: EDEN PURE QUARTZ INFRARED HEATER
wa8yxm,
I was agreeing with you and just trying to express the "sameness" of all electric heaters in a different way for those that didn't.
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Rich D.
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09/16/08 12:42pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: EDEN PURE QUARTZ INFRARED HEATER
Keep in mind that a Watt is a Watt, regardless of whether is is consumed by a resistance element, a quartz tube or an infrared lamp or element. You get 3.41 BTU's of heat per watt so multiply that times the number of watts and you get the BTU output. Gimmicks abound but you get the same heat from a $15.00 1500 watt heater as you do from a $659.00 1500 watt fancy whatever heater. Just purchase any SAFE electric heater, a watt is a watt.
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Rich D.
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09/16/08 11:10am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Cleaning Aluminum wheels...
There are many fine polishing products on the market including the ones mentioned above. I am partial to Busch Products.
Link
http://www.buschshineproducts.com/images/64021.jpg2.jpg
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Rich D.
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09/15/08 11:40am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Diesel Fuel Additives
If you purchase diesel in the summer months and don't use it until winter you will need an anti-gel. If you purchase fuel in the colder months, the additive will already be in the fuel. If you plan to store the motorhome down South or in the North during warm seasons I would add BioBor or some other biocide to prevent algae growth in the tank.
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Rich D.
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09/11/08 11:42am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: HWH or Atwood levelers
I have 18 years over 3 buses equipped with HWH. A total of less than $200.00 has been spent for repairs and maintenance.
Both electrics and hydraulics are easy to get "unstuck" if you bury one in soft ground - simply inflate the suspension and the jack will pull up as the chassis raises.
What it comes down to is the weight of the coach, 45000 lbs better be on hydraulic, much lighter coaches can be electric.
I vote for hydraulic as you can always get a malfunctioning jack raised where an electric, you can't.
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Rich D.
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09/08/08 08:38am |
Class A Motorhomes
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